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MOUNTAINEERING COURSE

Experience Glacier and Climbing

Course Content

On a mountaineering course, you will get to experience both glacier and rock climbing. Many of the techniques and much of the equipment are the same for both glacier and rock climbing. A mountaineering course demonstrates these connections and teaches participants what is required for safe travel on glaciers and in steep mountains.

The experience is the focus of this course, and you will get to try various activities related to ice and rock climbing.

If you want to learn glacier hiking and rock climbing so thoroughly that you can do it on your own, you should choose a glacier course and a climbing course.

Theme List

The following will be practiced:

  • Walking on easy and difficult ice, without a rope
  • Hiking on easy and difficult ice, with a rope
  • Belaying techniques in a rope team
  • Rescue (Loose Rolle)
  • Climbing and rappelling on glaciers and mountains
  • Top-rope climbing at climbing sites
  • Belaying on rock
  • Climbing in high mountains with natural protection
  • Climbing routes of at least three rope lengths

The following will be covered in the evenings:

  • Glacier knowledge
  • Rescue techniques on glaciers and mountains
  • Alpine hazards
  • Knots and rope handling
  • Belaying techniques on glaciers and mountains
  • Equipment

Course locations

Smørstabbreen

The first part of the course takes place on Smørstabbreen. Here, we will spend one day on the ice and one day on the snow-covered glacier, giving you an introduction to both.

Hurrungane and Smørstabbtindane

The second part of the course begins with a day at a climbing site, either at Turtagrø or in Lom. Then, there are two days of climbing in Hurrungane or on Smørstabbtindane.

MONDAY

We meet at 7 PM and spend some time setting up the tent camp. It is located about ten minutes from the road.

Afterward, we will gather for introductions. Then we will look at equipment and practice knots. The instructors will also explain the plan and what we will go through the next day.

TUESDAY

We will spend this day on Smørstabbreen. We will practice tying into the rope team, walking techniques with and without a rope, and belaying the rope team. Participants will get to lead the rope team and place the protection themselves.

At the end of the day, we will set up a belay station and do some top-rope climbing.

WEDNESDAY

Now we will practice belaying at the transition between snow and ice and go through a couple of companion rescues on snow.

In the evening, we will prepare for the climbing part of the course.

THURSDAY

We will spend this day at a climbing site, either at Tronoberget in Lom or at Turtagrø.

We will start with top-rope climbing to learn how to use the equipment and practice climbing techniques, rope team routines, and communication. Finally, we will cover rappelling.

FRIDAY

We are planning a climbing trip to Saksa via Bjørnebreen (2189 meters above sea level) so that we can combine glacier hiking and climbing, or a destination in Hurrungane such as Store Austabotntind (2204 meters above sea level).

The participants’ preferences, as well as the weather and conditions in the mountains, will determine the choice.

SATURDAY

Now we are going to climb in the high mountains again. It could be Store Dyrhaugsryggen (2147 m) from the ridge, Skeia (2118 m above sea level), Vesle Galdhøpiggen (2369 m above sea level), or another peak in Jotunheimen.

SUNDAY

Sunday has a short schedule: We pack up and head home.